Zion Virgin Narrows Photo Tips and Guide

Updated: January 2023

The Narrows at Zion National Park are one of the world’s premier landscape photography treasures. Who couldn’t be mesmerized by those images of red sandstone walls glimmering with reflected light?  If you are planning a visit, let me share with you my tips and learnings gleaned over the years to help you make the most of your trip.  

So, first of all, what exactly is the Virgin Narrows?

Over the eons, the Virgin River has carved its way through mountains to create the wonder that is Zion National Park.  The Narrows is a section where the river has sliced a thin, deep wound thru the surrounding sandstone…only 20 feet wide in some spots and the walls of the canyon shoot nearly straight up over a 1,000 feet. 

Just imagine yourself standing in the river, the walls close on either side, and the sky no more than a sliver of light snaking its way far overhead.  It is magnificent.  And if that wasn’t enough, what really makes this world-class is the incredible way the sandstone walls reflect light. The illuminated walls create a warm iridescent glow that is a dynamic contrast to the shaded walls on the other side.

What’s so Special?

There are four features of the Narrows that are truly exceptional:

1)  The Light 

I’ve already mentioned it, so I won’t beat this to death, but the quality and color of the light as it reflects off of the sandstone walls of the canyon is amazing.

2)  The sheer number of incredible views 

You know, many of the places I’ve photographed are ‘one-trick-ponies.’  You go to a specific location for a specific shot, set up the tripod and might not even move it more than ten feet until you leave.   

But the Narrows is not a single, specific vista.  Here you are moving the entire day and are treated to new views every five minutes!   You could spend days here without photographing the same scene twice.

3)  Time Will Stop  

I often spend 6 hours here. I know that this sounds like a long hike, but much of the time you will be standing still sightseeing and photographing, not walking. The time will fly.

4)  The FUN factor

Time for a confession:  I usually don’t really love hiking.  I mean, the actual process of putting one foot in front of the other with a heavy pack in hot weather for a full day…well, I can think of more pleasant things to do.    With that said, this is one of the few hikes I would go on again even if I didn’t have a camera with me.  It-is-really-THAT-cool.  The scenery is non-stop the entire way and the fact that most of the hike is actually in the river itself makes it just plan fun!  My son and I have hiked a lot of iconic places over the years…but we both agreed that this was the best day of trekking we have ever experienced.  It is no surprise that the Narrows is widely considered as one of the Top 10 hikes in the country.

There are different hikes for the Narrows, which one should I take?

For photographers, I’d suggest you do the “Bottom-Up”  hike in which you trek upstream about 3-5 miles and then turn around and return.  This hike will cover most of the prime photo ops, you don’t need a permit and most reasonably healthy folks should be able to make the hike with no problems. 

You could also do the “Top-Down” hike.  This is about 16 miles starting at the trailhead at Chamberlain’s Ranch.    It can be done in a long 12-14 hour day IF you are in great shape, AND you don’t mind that you won’t have any time to actually stop and take photographs. Photographers will need to plan to make this a two-day overnight hike.  A permit is required for any “Top-Down’ hike and you can obtain them three months in advance at this site.

Since the “Bottom-Up” hike is the one most photographers choose, it is the one I will review in this article.

 What should I expect on the Bottom-up hike?

This trailhead starts at the Temple of Sinawava.  You first walk a mile on the paved “Riverside Trail.”  Keep your eyes open, there is a lot of wildlife (especially early in the morning).  At the trail’s end you enter the river and head upstream.  Most of the water is waist deep or less and you will cross from one side of the river to the other dozens of times.  With a bit of practice you will learn to recognize where the current is slowest and cross at those spots.  Photo ops begin immediately once you get into the river.   Less than a 1/2 mile will bring you to Mystery Falls (see photo below).

Each bend of the river reveals another photo-worthy vista and you will find yourself stopping often to set up your tripod.

About 2.5 miles from the trailhead (1.5 miles after entering the river), you will see a small stream enter from another canyon on your right.

This is Orderville Canyon.  Although it has a charm all it’s own, the best of the Virgin Narrows is yet to come, so I’d suggest bypassing Orderville and continuing down the main channel. 

After Orderville, the canyon gets even more narrow. This area is known as “Wall Street” and the photo ops continue non-stop over the next two miles until you get to Big Springs (when you see waterfalls coming out of the western side of the cliff, you will know you found it).  This is as far as most folks will be able to reach before having to stop and head back.

What is the best Season to Go?

Summer

Summers are the most popular time of year to hike the narrows, but not necessarily the best for photographers. It will be incredibly crowded. Even if you get an early start it will difficult to take a shot without other hikers in the frame.

It will also likely be hot. The cool river and abundant shade will help, but temperatures can still be scorching.

Spring

Spring is far less crowded but snowmelt can result in the Park Service closing the Narrows (sometimes for weeks at a time) due to high water flow/volume (usually between April and June in years when it does happen). These closures can make planning a trip a bit chancy, so be sure to check that the trail is open before planning a trip.

Being a slot canyon, flash floods are a potential concern after rain. Check for flash-flood warnings from the National Weather Service on the Park Service Website before your hike.

Temperatures are lower than summer and when is is really chilly, you will need specialized clothing to keep you warm. More about this later.

Fall and Winter

Personally, I think these seasons are ideal. Water levels are lower and the current is much reduced making your footing easier. Like the spring, crowds are thinner but you will need to prepare for the cold.

If you visit in the October timeframe, your images can include the river’s cottonwood trees when their foliage turns a brilliant yellow. 

What Time of Day?

Go as early as you can! 

The Narrows can become a real zoo by late morning, especially in summer when there will be literally hundreds of people on the river by noon.  Trust me, you want to be at the trailhead as early after dawn as you can so you can enjoy the river and your photography while the multitudes are still in bed or having a leisurely breakfast.

Some photographers seem to prefer the reflected light in early or mid-morning during the summer and mid-afternoon in the autumn.

Personally, I plan on a full day (anytime of the year). Head out at dawn and photograph along the way. Stop after you pass Wall Street, climb up on a sunny boulder and have lunch. Then hike back photographing the afternoon light which is now reflecting on the opposite side that you saw in the morning. Don’t pass by attractive shots on your way upstream thinking you will take the shot on the way back…the light will be completely different.

How to get to the Trailhead

At certain times of the year, you have to take the mandatory park shuttle bus to the trailhead (at the Temple of Sinawava…the last stop).  Just park your car at the Visitors Center, which is on the right after you pass the toll-booths at the South (Springdale) entrance of the park.  Be on one of the first buses.

During the off-season, you can just drive your own vehicle to the parking area at Sinawava. Again, check their website for the latest info since these schedules change year to year.

Weather

You need to be aware that the narrows can be dangerous after a rain…that pleasant, shallow river can turn into a raging wall of rushing water coming at you in a narrow canyon with no way to reach higher ground.  Don’t take this hike if rain is in the forecast.

We photographers love our clouds. You can hear us groan at sunrise or sunset when the sky is clear.  However, clear skies are actually ideal for this location since there will be that much more sunlight to reflect off the sandstone.  If you are spending multiple days at Zion, do this hike on a day with a forecast for sunny skies.

Equipment

Since you are going to be actually hiking in the river for much of the day, there is some equipment you will want to bring that probably isn’t part of your usual kit.

1)  Buy a Dry Bag. 

A dry-bag will cost you less than $20 on Amazon and it will prevent your camera, wallet and (electronic) car keys from getting wet.  The rocks in the river are rounded, smooth and often not visible.  Even if you are sure-footed, there is a strong probability that you will trip at least once.

Yes, this means that you will have to pull the dry bag out of your backpack for every shot, but once you’ve done it a few times you will get it down to a science.

2)  Take hiking poles. 

Even if you don’t normally use them, make an exception.  I would fall a couple times every time I do this trek if I didn’t take poles.  A single hiking stick is better than nothing but a pair of hiking poles is really the way to go on this excursion.

3) Footwear. 

Since you will be in the water a good part of the day, you need footwear that can handle it….and this doesn’t mean sandals or water shoes!  You will be jamming your feet against rocks.  Wear shoes that provide real protection, have a tread pattern that can grip slippery rocks…and if they provide ankle protection, so much the better.  

Also, buy some 3mm neoprene socks (about $15).  These will help keep sand from getting between you and your shoes and rubbing you raw…they will also keep your feet a lot warmer.

4) Tripod. 

This isn’t an option if you want to take anything more than snapshots.  The canyon is definitely a low light photo op and your exposure times will be long unless you shoot at high ISOs.

5)  Clothing. 

Even when water is at its lowest during the summer, there are spots that are chest high in the river. You will get wet.  Wear quick dry fabric.

If you are hiking during cold weather, you should consider wearing a dry suit . You are going to be in the water a long time and you will be miserable if you don’t protect yourself against the cold. A dry-suit will keep you warm and toasty (you can rent gear from a number of good outfitters in Springdale). 

6)  Food/Water. 

You are going to be out for a good part of the day and you will burn some serious calories.  There are some epic spots for picnics.  Climb atop one of the big sunny rocks in the middle of the river and enjoy a nice lunch that includes something more elegant than  granola bars.  You can also develop quite a thirst over 6 hours and you won’t want to drink the river water.  A single bottle of Aquafina isn’t going to cut it.

7)  Hat/Sunscreen. 

Really? In a slot canyon?  By mid-day, the sun will be hitting you right on top of the head and during the summer it will be hot.

8)  Camera. 

• The dynamic range in the canyon is incredible.  You need a lot more than a point-and-shoot for your primary camera here. Full frame sensor cameras excel here.
• But if you also have small waterproof camera, take it along too.  Stick it in a pocket and capture shots of your fellow hikers and the spontaneous events that you would otherwise miss as you struggle to pull your big camera out of the drysack.

9)  Lens. 

You really need a wide lens otherwise you won’t be able to capture the full scene from river to cliff top.  Nearly all of of my shots were taken at 16mm or wider (10mm on APS-C cameras).  Your lens does not have to be particularly fast since you will be photographing from a tripod

10)  Polarizer. 

A polarizer will help tame reflections and saturate colors.  It will also result in a longer exposure, which helps to produce that ‘silky’ water effect.

Technique & Tips

1)  Use HDR/Bracketing.  As mentioned earlier, the dynamic range in the Narrows is dramatic.  Sometimes I have to take 9 separate exposures a full stop apart to successfully capture the full range of light in HDR.

2)  Only show a sliver of sky (or none at all) in your shots.  If you include large portions of the sky, it will be difficult to prevent it from overpowering the rest of your image…even with HDR.  In addition, the direct sunlight tends to lessen the beautiful effect of reflected light…which is why you are photographing the Narrows in the first place.

3)  Get Low.  Set your tripod as low as you can…and try some shots set up in the river.  This makes for a more unusual perspective and tends to emphasize the water’s movement.

4)   ISO  Since you are shooting on a tripod, use your lowest ISO setting.  This will result in some long exposure times, but it will maximize the quality of your images and also soften the appearance of the rushing water.

5)  Don’t forget people!  It’s not all about scenery (at least my wife keeps telling me so).  Capture some memories of the folks you spend time with in the river.

So there you have it, tips and suggestions to help make the most of your adventure on the Virgin River.  Trust me, It will be one you will never forget.

Cheers!
Jeff

PS: If you are traveling to Zion, consider photographing the world famous “Subway.” Check out my article about it here.

Zion Virgin Narrows Photo Tips and Guide

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